Just try to quiet the spirit of a neighborhood that has gone through cultural adaptation, isolated encampment, development that takes away a quarter of a neighborhood, and a misunderstanding of traditional ways within your own family. Not many have found a way to celebrate ethnic heritage and yet be flexible to adapt without compromising it. Even each generation gets a moniker. In Los Angeles they will gather with a call in to the ancestors for backup, and get supplemental strength through cured beans.
Day of the dead in East LA? Not quite. It's the "Ondo" parade with a serving of tofu on the side in Little Tokyo.
Coming August 12, The 66th Annual Nisei Week Japanese Festival will again be running for two weeks anchored by the "Ondo" parade, a Japanese tradition of street dance to express a joy of living, and honor loved ones who have passed away. Then there's the LA Tofu Festival where health-conscious Angelenos dance in the street with joy of eating honoring the protein alternative with a variety of recipes.
The Los Angeles Tofu Festival partners with TokyoPop and runs alongside Nisei Week August 12th to August 13th. ($8 to get in) The slated guest list includes "Iron Chef America" Morimoto, Tommy Tang, local "Next Food Network Star" finalist, Chef Reggie Southerland, and Executive Chef Troy Thompson also from Iron Chef America. Last year the combined festivals bring in records crowds to Little Tokyo and Joe's Parking Lots and this could be a year where both the crowds and heat break record.
The first Nisei Week in 1934, that ran for seven days and nights, didn't begin just as preservation of the old ways. American born and college educated Japanese (Nisei) wanted to honor their own traditions and yet stimulate business growth during the depression. Back then, the established Little Tokyo merchants catered mostly to Japanese born clientele and while it was stable, it wasn't growing under the control of the Issie (1st generation - those born in Japan). For the Nisei (2nd generation - those born outside of Japan). Written in an early 1934 program, it was felt that "The Nisei is a new American. Young, ambitious, hopeful, though at times oppressed, he seeks to take his place in civic development." And as Togo Tanaka wrote in the 50th Anniversary program: "The Issei controlled it (Little Tokyo) completely, as they did the community. We respected our elders, but their ideas were getting old". Soon, Japanese crowds five rows deep watched summer evening parades under lanterns and lights.
Everything was interrupted by World War II and with the 1942-1945 "evacuations", Nisei Week for postponed for several years. As residents returned to a deteriorated community with little political clout after the war, it was the return of Nisei Week that brought together a network that lead the development of Little Tokyo for the next few decades. As LAPD's Parker Center took over 25% of the old neighborhood, steps were made to save "what's left of Little Tokyo". A persistent two decade campaign developed for what's known as the Little Tokyo Historical District and it still continues. From the growth of The Japanese American National Museum to the historical building that once housed The Far East Cafe, various Little Tokyo groups still work at preserving two cultures. Japanese, and the Japanese-American. Those efforts are seen not just in the public art around Little Tokyo, but the storefronts alongside 1st Street as they angle with City Hall to give a glimpse of a different era of Los Angeles.
It continues to evolve. With these festivals, the Nisei and later the Sansei (3rd generation - those born of Nisei parents) and Yonsei (do the math) and anyone with a cultural tie to Little Tokyo joins in a cultural inheritance. As Nisei Week organizer Roku Sugahara wrote in a 1936 program, "They (Issie) bequeathed to their children the rich heritage of a fine and proud Japanese heritage. They taught the right and honorable way of life to their children. Carry on, become good citizens and develop a fine community."
They are doing just that. Come for the tofu. Stay for the "Ondo".
Top: 1951 Grand Parade at 1st Street and San Pedro. (For LA centric readers, that is the Linda Lea Theatre in background at a prior location.)
Bottom: 1934 Grand Parade held in evening. Maybe someday they will hold the Grand Parade at night again. During the 60s, it was brought to daylight for local television coverage.
Photos: Toyo Miyatake Studios
Hispters love the Tofu Fest because they think it's some sort of pro-vegan event. It's actually a fundraising event for a community-based non-profit in Little Tokyo (Little Tokyo Service Center) that they probably have never heard about.
Posted by: Militant Angeleno | July 27, 2007 at 10:45 PM